Brothers (兄弟, Xiōng Dì, "Brothers") is a rare cultivar of Phoenix Oolong. This tea comes to us from tea farmer and tea master Lin Yaobin in Chao An, who processes it with a unique two-step roasting process. The initial electric roast helps to fix the tea in a low-oxidation state, preserving the floral high notes, while the second charcoal roast adds depth and body. The result is a medium-oxidized oolong with a rounder, milder character than many Phoenixes. The profile, while complex, demonstrates a quality known in Chinese as chún 醇. Difficult to translate, this word originally refers to the flavor of good aged rice wine, whereby the various notes have melded harmoniously. In reference to tea, chún 醇 signifies a flavor that is both sophisticated and unified, presenting as a coherent profile with much nuance. The overall character of Brothers is an excellent balance between sweet and dry, with floral and grain notes, vaguely reminiscent of a rice krispy treat. The afterfragrance has a marshmallow-y sweetness with a bit of tart cherry blended in. It has a creamy mouthfeel and a light, clarified-butter note on the exhale. The huí gān 回甘 ("returning sweetness") is light, but tenacious, centering on the middle of tongue and evolving into a persistent cooling sensation in the throat. This unique tea is an excellent example of how precise and skillful roasting can bring out the distinctive characteristics of individual cultivars.
